Journey to village -July 2013

Prologue

Towards the escalating sun in eastern valleys,

Where, the my residence settlement belongs,

Where my much-loved dad and mom stays,

Where my dearly loved relatives hang about;

I departed eastern valleys for more than year,

I finally planned to visit them once again.

I started journey from Paro -western Bhutan to Phuentsholing -south-western Bhutan. I travelled in Cab along with group of easterners. I reached Phuentsholing calmly passing various hills and valleys. I hold the night there. Next day, I travelled to Gelephu where my only sister stays. I spent more than a week there. I enjoyed great scenes and sceneries of south central Bhutan.

After a week, it was time to travel towards south-eastern Bhutan- Samdrup Jongkhar. Myself, In-law and his friend started journey towards the east. Through the great plains of Assam, following the Asian highway for 5 to 6 hours, we reached Samdrup Jongkhar. It was my immense joy to be in Samdrup Jongkhar after a year gap. I last visited the place in July 2012.

It was 1:30 pm when we reached there, it was very hot there, and we plan to travel ahead. So, we bought necessary things from various shops within very short span of time. We then climbed upwards the uphill of south-eastern Bhutan towards the destination. Our destination here was Tongzhang, Trashi Yangtse. This district is complete east which shares boundary with Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh in the East and Chinese colonized Tibet in the North.

Through the hills and valleys, in the thick fogies, we travelled swiftly. The roads are enveloped by thick fogies where we hardly see road ahead. Still then we travelled to reach our destination. By 6pm we reached Wamrong the satellite town under Trashigang District. We had lunch and took rest for very petite interval.

Wamrong is the town located along the road sides below Dungkhag headquarters. Once the town was razed by the fire and gutted to the ground. The travelers take meals there and also hold nights. The passenger buses, trucks, taxis and other vehicles travelling stops there, whether they have some work or not, which help shopkeepers there, earn some income.

We proceeded further then. Same situation was exists along the journey. After travelling for less than two hours we reached Khaling, which is also satellite town under same district. The people there were shutting down the shutters of the shops. I carefully looked around while travelling. I enjoy the scenes there. It is attractive and picturesque place.

The Khaling is famous for National Institute for Disabilities and Jigme Sherabling HSS which is renowned school in Bhutan. About 10 to 12 kilometers away from town, the monastery is located above the road head. It is the Karma Kagyu Shaydra sponsored and looked after by Kyabjee Zuri Rinpoche. The construction work was started somewhere in 2004 or 2005 and completed in 2010. But Shaydra was existed before itself.

We stopped for while and prayed facing the temple. My father spent more than five years constructing the temple. He worked there as Zow/Zowpoen. The temple at night looks as if it’s flying in the sky. However, we had to proceed.

As soon as we crossed some few meters, we encountered the minor road blocks where we overtook. After crossing several minor blocks, we encountered major road block where DANTAK officials and laborers still working to clear up the blocks for the benefit of public. They lit the torch. I was happy with DANTAK and thanked them for working at night.

There were only two light vehicles travelling at the same time. For those two vehicles, they worked until 9pm. Minority is prioritized by them. The stones and mud are rolling from above the road. We finally, pass through that block.

We calmly reached Yonphula and travelled down the hill and passed through Sherabtse College and followed by Rongthung village and so on.

Yonphula is famous for Yonphula Lake and only airport in eastern Bhutan. The place is located on top of the uprising hill where we could see Drametse, Trashigang, Sherabtse College and other parts of Trashigang and also Trashi Yangtse.

Sherabtse College is located below Yongphula. The college is famous in the country and its oldest of all. Below Sherabtse College is Rongthung Nagtshang is located and where our Queen’s paternal ancestors hailed from, as per legend history says. We took some time to gaze at the Naktshang. So, we proceeded.

We reached Pam. The Pam is village that is famous for early potatoes in the country. The Oil and Gas Distribution center is located there. Auto workshops too are located there. We filled up our vehicle and checked whether vehicle is dented or not. It was very calm without movement of vehicles. It was almost 9:30pm.

We travelled ahead to reach our destination. We passed through Chazam. The Chazam is famous in the country as there was Iron Bridge over the river which was built by Thangthong Gyelpo but it does not exist today. This is the junction where travelers can divert to many directions.

After 20 minutes drive we entered the boundary of Trashi yangtse. Jamkhar-drang is boundary point for two districts. We reached Tsher-Gom where Guru Rinpoche visited in 8th Century while subduing the demon that was chased from Tibet and reached at Gom kora.

After little minute drive from Tsher-Gom we entered the territory of Tongzhang. The feeder road heading towards Tongzhang Gewog centre is somewhat good. We climbed up the hills of Lower Tongzhang above Gomkora.

Gomkora is famous in the country due to its unique Tshechu conducted every year. The place was once visited by Guru Rinpoche along with Demon and subdued at the place. There we can find a temple and many holy places around. The Nye is situated below the District Highway.

We travelled eagerly up the hills and valleys passing numerous hamlets such as Dukuling, Bainangkhar, Lakurung, Gambari and Shakpa. Now we reached the junction where we had to travel more than 20 kilometers ahead. From Shakpa chorten, we had to follow the farm road heading towards my village. We entered the farm road leaving Chorten behind.

As soon as we entered the farm road, the vehicle bounced as if like ball. We passed by newly constructing school on the hills of Kunzangling which is scheduled to be completed by end of 2013. The location of school to me is not good as there is no place for football ground. No water supply and many more. The location is really pathetic. We passed the construction site and passed through Kenmong and Changmadung villages. Finally, I could see light glowing at my house which is more than four kilometers away. We travelled through various small hills and valleys, we reached Luungchu.

Luungchu is a river which swiftly flows from Thumbrangla Mountain joining other tributaries. The River is used for irrigation and for many other purposes. The bridge connecting two sides of the river is made up of wooden logs (Oak Tree) and nailed the planks on it. As we travelled at night I could not see how far it is in good condition. So, we passed through the wooden bridge. This bridge was constructed before four years but did not changed wooden logs so far. Why RCC Bridge is constructed until today? More than 7 to 10 vehicles including heavy and light uses the Bridge but no one concern to raise the issue. This is how pathetic upper Tongzhang is from my point of view.

No matter whatever may be, we proceeded. We started crossing numerous hills and valleys. We could now see villages below road calm and peace. Dogs barking when light of the vehicle strikes over the houses. The people were already in deep sleep. But we are still travelling.

However, we almost reached home. We reached the point where we have to follow the foot path for 2 minutes. I dialed to my dad to pick us. Dad and second youngest brother came to pick us. So, we reached home safely only by 11:30 pm.

By this time my dearly loved parents and siblings wait for us. They haven’t slept as they too were eager to meet with me after lengthy gap. I was also eager to meet with them. We carried things on back and proceeded.

My dear mother has prepared delicious meals for us. She prepared Shakam Datshi for In-law and his friend, and for me she prepared a delicious Ema Datshi. Then we slept by 1am.

Epilogue

From the Escalating sun in eastern valleys,

I Dendup journeyed back to the western region.

Through the hills and valleys of eastern Bhutan,

I reached back to Samdrup Jongkhar.

I calmly journeyed towards Gelephu,

With my beloved sister who stays there.

A week time later, I journeyed to Paro via Thimphu.

Our Dream – Our Education City

The Democracy was introduced in our country in 2008. Since then, our country becomes world’s youngest democratic nation in the world. The two parties came up with their manifestos and candidates to contest for the election. The first Nationwide Election was held on 24^th March 2008 where the Druk Phuensum Tshogpa (DPT) -the Bhutan Peace and Prosperity Party was elected as Ruling Party. Druk Phuensum Tshogpa formed the first Democratically Elected Government. The People’s Democratic Party (PDP) won two seats in National Assembly and formed Opposition Party -the world’s smallest Opposition Party.

Since then, the elected government brought numerous changes in the country, in various ways. The road network has been enhanced, mobile network stations are installed, etc. in every nook and corner of the country. The Information Technology (IT) Park was also established in Thimphu. The government works hard for the benefit of the people in various ways. The developmental strategies were changed.

The Education City was proposed and also started the construction of fundamental facilities such as road, bridge, electricity, etc. to make access to where Education City will be stationed. The construction works are underway. The Education City was supposed to be stationed on the hills between Capital City -Thimphu and International Airport –Paro and just above Chuzom opposite to Wang Sisina. If the Education City is being legally approved by National land Commission, it would be beneficial for the upcoming generations and also create employment opportunities. The economy of the country would have improved in near future. The government project site development works are awarded to local contractor since 2012 and is ongoing.

According to the news, the controversy of legality of the land was raised by National Land Commission since the proposal for the Project. According to the news from the media houses, “the Education City has act and not the land”. The Education City act was tabled in parliament when DPT was ruling. National Land Commission wrote several letters to Education City Secretariat, where there was no response. However, many people holding land near the project site were extremely contented. The people from other localities bought land nearby expecting the future prospect. Some sold their land at very high rate.

The issue regarding legality of land was raised by South Thimphu Candidate during election Campaign. The people from around the country questioned regarding land to the candidates but the questions were whether DPT ministers and MPs own land nearby or in the boundary of Education City or not. The issue was left untouched.

Now the new government came to the power. The People’s Democratic Party –the ruling party is in office for more than eight months, after National Land Commission proved the Education City land is illegal, closed the project before reaching to its height. The project site developers are in the verge of completing the works on time. The road already reached the border of the Education City, reverie to be established. The bridge will soon be seen over the Wangchu River.

When biggest ever project related to Education is stopped, the different kind of questions are generating within the people, timely. Why did previous government start such illegal project? Why Education City Project Secretariat didn’t response the letters of National Land Commission regarding legality of the land? Why Opposition didn’t oppose while tabling the act? Why new government would find solutions to solve the controversy rather than closing it?

The several questions are generated in all most all the peoples’ mind. Now what will be the outcome of such a huge investment on site development works is already done? The Bitumen was procured and reach to the. Will this site will turn into Park or other important and interesting place which is beneficial for the people living in the capital city and nearby districts.

Some people say that the reason for stopping the Education City Project is perhaps due to illegality of the land, no water source, etc. If supposed the project continues, the huge amount of investment will be on water supply. This location is not good at all even it’s located nearby capital city and International Airport.

Some suggests, if the project was in eastern Bhutan or central Bhutan it would have not stopped.

The people have ambiguity feelings on the legality of the land. This will remain ambiguity for the people, forever until the site changed to any other productive places.

The question left for the people is, who will be responsible for the investment incurred so far?

Pilgrimage to Taktshang -the Tiger's Nest

Taktshang monastery and Nyes

Taktshang monastery is located north to the town of Paro. It’s one and half hours walk from nearest road head, Ramthangka. It is built on the cliff that was blessed by Ugyen Guru Rinpoche in 8^th Century. To know the meaning of the Taktshang, I explain combined two words in different sense.  The Tak is the Dzongkha word for Tiger, and Tshang meaning the Nest, which two combined is called as Tak-tshang. The name is derived after Guru Rinpoche visited the place, riding on the Tiger in the form of Guru Dorji Drolo to subdue the demon or evil deities there.

 

On the way to Taktshang, we enjoy the great scenes of northern Paro. We climbed the hill upwards following the mule track. There are numerous Handicraft shops are stationed there mainly for the tourists.

On the way to Taktshang, the Cafeterias are located at different places. Water and rubbish bins are fixed for the benefit of visitors and to conserve environment as a whole. 

Prayer flags are hanged along the footpath before reaching the temple which made the place holistic and picturesque.

The history of Guru Rinpoche (the Tantric Master) dates back to 8^th Century. He meditated there for several months on massive rock which we can see even today. The reason for Ugyen Guru Rinpoche’s visit in the form of Dorji Drolo is to subdue the evil spirits. Guru Rinpoche manifested himself in eight forms at different places while subduing demons. 

Guru Rinpoche flew to the place riding on Tiger as and when Guru predicts that there, the demon takes the life of the people settled nearby. Due to his supernatural power, he subdued evil spirits in Nepal, India, Tibet, Bhutan and other parts of the world. He travelled to various parts of the world intensely to subdue the demons to prevail peace and happiness amongst the people.

Today, with the name Taktshang, it gained name and fame all over the world. Due to its reputation, the place has become one of the most attractive tourist destinations in the country. All most all the tourists visiting Bhutan yearly by any means visit Taktshang.  

The temple was built on the massive rock in the form of Zangdo Pelri. History says that the temple was razed by fire to the ground for two times, which was restored later on. The temple was rebuilt same like what was before with very wide footpath with railing along the side footpath. 

As we enter the small gate installed before reaching the temple, there is a house purposefully constructed for the monks and police who are on duty. The followed by police check post, where we have to register our names along with Citizenship Identity Card. We are not allowed to take in our bags, camera, mobile phones, etc. to the Lhakhang.

As and when we left the police check post, we went to main temple where Guru Rinpoche’s meditation cave situated. There, we prayed for well being of all the sentient beings in this universe. During that day, the Payphu (Guru Rinpoche’s Meditation cave) was not exhibited. As Ken-Nyer says, it’s open and exhibit for the public only once in year. 

We then proceeded to another temple. There are numerous Lhakhangs where the main statue there is Tshelha Namsum, Guru Dorji Drolo, Guru Rinpoche and many more. The treasure crown is also preserved there in the temple. There is also Neykhang where we have to sing there.

Drup Chus (Holy water) such as Phadampa’s Drupchu and Khando Yeshey Thsogyel’s Drupchu are well preserved. The visitors take a sip and bottled it and take home for the families and friends.

There is Meditation house located near water fall in the middle of the cliff. The butter lamp house is located on other hill before reaching the temple.

The 69^th Je Khenpo Gayshay Gaydhuen Rinchen was born in the cave near Taktshang which we see stand still. There, the small temple in the form of Zangdo Pelri was built covering the birth cave.

There are numerous temples beyond main temple. We tried to follow the track to other temples on massive hills above and behind the main temple. But we failed due to limited time.

Winter –a feverish cold

When the month strikes to September, the warmth of the earth abridged day after days. The freezing weather surmounted the warmth of earth. By October, November and now December it’s completely chilly. The winter season in Thimphu is tremendously pathetic and other northern parts of our country which includes northern part of the country.

The people irrespective of age, wealth or others collect fire wood starting from July until September, to keep their homes warm during winter. The people, who live in town and cities, already prearranged firewood near their residences.

The Bukhari, the Metal Oven or Stove was fixed in their houses by end of September. But for the people of core northern parts of Bhutan fixed and readied it by early September. The Bukharis are purchased from Bumthang in Central Bhutan, Khaling in Eastern Bhutan and Phuentsholing in South-Western Bhutan.

In urban areas such as Thimphu and Paro, the houses are built with modern technology so, there is no way to set up Bukhari. But an Electric and Kerosene heaters are renown in urban areas.

Due to scarcity of Kerosene supply in the country, the use of Kerosene heater became chaotic for the people. The Kerosene is supplied only 10 liters a person when person submit Xerox copy Citizenship Identity Card. An increase in Electricity tariff, an Electric heater would be difficult for the people as one have to pay huge amount of bill at the end of month.

In villages, the people use Mud Oven or Traditional Oven to warm up their houses for entire winter and also summer to cook their meals. Every household village consumes more than 10 to 15 tons of firewood every year for cooking purposes and defending themselves from tremendous cold.

During winter, the people gather together and bath in sun, gossiping and ingesting something special. I saw the group of shopkeepers gathered together bathing sun, perhaps to avoid huge amount of electricity tariff at the end of the month.

The hardware and electronics shops are importing truck loads of Electric and Kerosene heaters weekly where they could make huge amount of income in very short span of time. Every household in Thimphu and Paro has two or three electric heaters plugged to the socket.

The kerosene heaters were used as alternatives due to super scarcity of Kerosene supply in the country. The tens of people wait near oil depot to buy kerosene with jars and ID Card Xerox copy in their hands.

The office goers and school goers wore woolen clothes. Some men and women wore Pajamas and leggings respectively. Mufflers, hats, caps, and hand gloves are famous among the people irrespective of ages.

The travelers travelling along the East-west highway via Trongsa and Bumthang uses car heaters and thick clothes to guard from frozen climate. The hotels and restaurants on the way fixed large Bukharis, to keep dining rooms warm.

The North Face jackets and cotton pants are got prominent winter clothes among the people. The party goers this time wore thick and wooly clothes instead short and half naked clothes.

This is how people defend themselves from chilly winter in our country. Happy winter and expect Snow soon in the city and towns in northern parts of the country.

Discotheque’s Problematic?

Our country is birth place of Gross National Happiness (GNH) which was innate from the heart of form King, His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck. In the GNH land of our country, the people of different ages do not consider our country as GNH’s birth place.

 

Discotheque in pour country gained famous over the years. Discotheque is the place where people from various areas grouped together and dance and enjoy drinks. The people of different age groups gather there for peel off their hectic mind refresh with optimum enjoyment with friends and strangers.

In the city of Thimphu, there are numerous Discotheques which attracts more than hundreds of people. In Paro too, there are countable Discotheques which magnetize people from around the town and also from village nearby. There are several Discotheques across the country which has intension of magnetizing the people to enjoy there, which ultimately help make income.

Tens and hundreds of people assemble at Discotheque. They stay there for few hours enjoying dances and drinks. When it is to shut, the people gathered came out of the discotheque, the intoxicated people then start yelling in the town disturbing residences in town and nearby areas. 

These days, Thimphu and Paro is extremely cold at night, but how the people can bear the extreme cold wearing short clothes exposing half of their bodies outward. They wear thick jacket to keep their upper half warm but think about lower half with skirt. I am wondering about the people of these days. 

Some married couples too enjoy in Discotheque keeping their children at home with baby sitter or house maid. They did not concern for the children at home eagerly waiting for the parents. Both husband and wife act same as they enjoy their life to the fullest where they have their own partners apart from marital life.

Though, they enjoy the life which leads to happiness in their life. But to create happiness in their life they never think that they are ruining the happiness of the neighbors. Does Discotheque help me to generate Happiness in my life? This question should be asked by everyone who enjoys in Discotheque by ruining others happiness.

During Wednesdays and Saturdays, the people who live in town areas does not enjoy good sleep as now and then party goers disturbs the sleep. They uproars and sings in the town loudly. Some people wakes up, shout against them but they tried to use slang words back. 

Drinking and dancing is one of the most enjoying parts of the life. The families at home are considered as minor importance in their life. Some youths today never listen to their parents because; they are addicted to drinks and discotheques. It’s truly unimaginable for all of us.

I have noticed numerous times where young boys and girls walk together holding each other. Some boys from another direction start mocking the girl, stating “Bum Jarim” which led to exchange boxing.  The girls use to smile and laugh at them while fight broke out. Some girls encourage their partners to bash them. 

When intoxicated boys fight among themselves, they use wood piece and stones and even other weapons which eventually hit on the vehicles parked in the town areas. The vehicles parked around too is not safe during Wednesdays, Saturdays and Occasions. 

Some people are caught by the police on the spot which lead them to police custody. They are charged under the felony of the particular laws. These finally give pressure to their parents and relatives. 

How much they are charged of such, they do not think of their parents and relatives. They just keep continuing with what they were doing prior to. 

Therefore, the Gross National Happiness is not fulfilled in the birth place. To GNH come true in the Bhutanese society, we the people of Bhutan should always think in same way and avoid un-societal chores. The odd jobs that people try to come up with really affect the country these days. 

We are Bhutanese with creativity and intelligence; we are respected by the people from around the world. We can do everything by ourselves, we should not think, unaccepted examples of other countries to exist in our country. Our country is unique, unique country should always keep unique.

Today, the people around the world are visiting our country to see how the people in this small and land locked country is working to be on own foot. 

This is Bhutan which is unique and unique from everything. Stop howling at night and quit visiting Discotheques.