Tuesday, October 06, 2015

My Dream, My Place -this is Thimphu

Prologue:

The city emerges from bamboo huts, roofed with bamboo thatch, to the improved Traditional Bhutanese houses, roofed with wooden shingles, to the modern and well-equipped concrete buildings. The number of households from hundreds reaches thousands now. The population increased from the hundreds to hundred thousand. The facilities improved from the footpath to narrow road to wide enough expressways and highways. The medical and health center, which was small Basic Health Unit (BHU) in the past, to the country’s largest hospital today, is the major changes took place in the capital city.

The place is country’s new capital and abode for largest, smallest, and oldest dzong in the country, which was built on the behest of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel in 17th century. The facilities and recreational centers are well equipped and accessible for the people. Moreover, the social problems related youths become prominent, and are increasing every now and then. Impressing places like Kuensel Phodrang where 169 feet Buddha Dordenma statue installed became one the most stunning places here. This is the capital city of Bhutan, Thimphu.

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E
arly in the morning, I woke up, brushed my teeth, had cleansing face wash, offered the daily ‘Choep’ (religious/water offering), and followed by preparing breakfast. As soon as I have done with all the works, I sat near the window. With calm mind, I just looked around for a while to give exercise to my eyes. Through the eyes of the windows, I looked round city tilting my head around, where I witnessed the people in different colors of their dresses, driving towards the office; some majestically walks to the office, some waits for the cabs, some waits for the city busses and other mode of transportations. 

I was happily looking at them through the eyes of the window. I, myself being an unemployed middle aged boy, I could notice uncountable incidences happening. I could make the judgment that people walk, catch cabs or buses, drive their own cars, etc. based on their monthly income, which clearly shows that the income level for the people are not same. The luxurious cars appear and go; standard cars come and go, but office goers without car waits unless cabs and busses come.

This is the situation, where our low-income people have problems. When I came across such incidences, I realized how I have been to Thimphu, which was tremendously compelling situation for me. My mind was filled with the melancholic sadness, which forced me to jot down the following lines. However, lines may not be interesting and appropriate for all, but the situation for me in the city, became dejected one in last few years.



How I get into the City

I was born in the corner of the country’s extremely eastern district, Trashi Yangtse, which is unknown to the people until it become the separate district in 1992. My beloved parents, who settled down in Tongzhang were truly loving and caring for their six siblings, including me. I am third child to be born in the family, where they took care of me as they did to two elder brothers. I have a sister and two younger brothers. Including dad and mom, we are of eight family members with mutual sympathetic values of both parents and siblings.

I was born there and brought up there. In 1996, on 10 March, Pre-Primary (PP) schooling started in village based school. With great vision of my parents, I was sent to school with my beloved friends. It was starting point of my career at the age of little less than seven, though moral values and accepted values in human society was started with my parents prior to. My career started in village based school until sixth grade. I completed my class six in 2002, where my beloved only grandmother was passed away. It was followed by Tsenkharla Middle Secondary School for four years starting 2003 to 2006. I completed class ten from there.

My deteriorating results just pushed me to experience the city life in Thimphu. Since my result was not what I expected, then I had to come to Thimphu to pursue higher studies. I journeyed to Thimphu via East-west lateral highway, but unfortunately, I had to change the route. I travelled through Assam, India passing Phuentsholing and other southern Bhutan districts. We travelled in the truck, and changed to cab. We travelled in the cab through various uphill and gorges. The travelling was experiencing journey to get into the capital city.

As and when I enter the capital city, Thimphu, it was of course amazing but different environment for me. I enter the new place with new thoughts. It creates self-doubting feelings within me. No matter whatsoever, I just reach Lungtenzampa, the famous bridge in the capital city. My relative was waiting for me, near the bridge. With his appearance standing near the bridge, my self-doubting feeling was cleared. It was truly wonderful for me to settle down in capital city, with my relatives whom I came across for few times prior to. However, it was also bitter experience for me, which helped me in learning more. Anyway, my life expeditions in the city start from Lungtenzampa Bridge then followed by life with relatives and newly met friends. Two years of my schooling in Kelki Higher Secondary School, was overwhelming situation for me. I learned a lot, experienced bitterly within two years.

How Thimphu city changed?

The physical changes from bamboo or cane huts, which was in smaller size, to the Traditional Bhutanese houses, and to concrete buildings is the Capital city of Bhutan, Thimphu. Getting every day bigger in its size in terms of population, which led to increase number of houses, needy infrastructure and others, this is the way that Capital City enlarged over the recent years. It is located in the district of Thimphu in western Bhutan. According to the history or photographs, that I have seen clearly shows it changed over the time. Its shares the borders with neighboring districts of Paro in the west, Punakha and Wangdue in east, Chukha in the south and Gasa and Tibet border in the north. It is fast growing city in the country and capital city of Bhutan.

Entering in the capital city is one of the thrilling ways of life, which lead to tremendous enjoyment in the life ahead providing that we have good atmosphere to live in. However, enjoyment leads the life of every individual, but there are various problems in the city. With growing its physical structure, it is difficult for the people living in the city.

The capital city is the recreational places for the people who come on holidays from rural parts of the country. The people come to Thimphu to meet their family, relatives, and friends. They stay here for few weeks enjoying the pristine vicinity of the city from various viewpoints. They meet with their relatives settled down in the city. From village to capital, and capital city to village, they could find differences of the sky and earth. The infrastructure, for example is one of the differences, which attracts the people to migrate to the city. The rural-urban migration leads to congestion in the city. When I first came to Thimphu, I could even imagine that the people are enjoying tremendous pleasures from the infrastructure the government installed for them. It was very first notion, prior to proper judgment was made.

As I settled down in the city, I could experience various unexpected incidences. The city has grown into big with little less than hundred thousand people. When the population is compared with other countries, it is nothing and rather it is like number of people living in the village.

In the village like town, so called as Capital City, Thimphu, is growing every day as I mentioned earlier. The His Majesty the King’s secretariat is located in the country’s largest Dzong (Fortress), Trashichodzong. The ten ministry’s offices are stationed in the city, various autonomous agency offices are located, the largest private sectors offices are stationed, and many uncountable offices are simply located here. The employment opportunities are created in this city, the new schools and institutes are coming up, various infrastructural development are expanding every day, and many more.

The country’s largest Medical Centre, the Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National Referral Hospital, with medical specialists is standing largest building in the city. In terms of Judiciary, the Supreme Court and High court is situated here, the universities, Royal University of Bhutan and University of Medical Sciences of Bhutan’s offices are positioned, etc. With such offices are installed here, there are needy recreational centers are fashioned.

From walking Buddha in Centenary Children’s Park located along the Wangchu River, facing Changlingmithang stadium, where the last civil war was fought, to the world’s tallest Buddha Dordenma statue installed on the hilltop of Changbangdo. National Zoo, the Tibetan style National Memorial Chorten in the heart of city to Bhutanese style 108 Druk Wangyel chortens on hilltop of Dochula, the Botanical Garden in Babesa to Royal Botanical Park at Lamperi and other major recreational places well known for the residents of the city. Coming to other recreational centers, it is well equipped and professionally installed.

When we count the infrastructures installed in the city, it seems enough for the people living in the city. However, getting in to the apartments every individual stay, we can come across the various problems, which is unacceptable. It is good that we struggle to overcome the problems that we are facing, but it is excruciating in one’s life. The school goers residing with their relatives face the major and extremely piercing problems. Yet there is no choice than to tolerate it to make our life fruitful.

The housing problem is one of the major problems in the city, today. The housing problem is unsolved problems, which will remain unsolved henceforth. By appearance, Thimphu’s houses look more than enough apartments for all the people, in reality, the people living in the city faces apartment problem. The electricity bill, water bill, television bill and other bills are extra expenses that one has to bear it.

The price for the vegetables and other grocery items are charged high. The clothing and other needy things are truly expensive. Haircut, for example, is one of the price escalating situations in Thimphu. When, I first came to Thimphu, for haircut, the coiffeurs (Barber) charge only Nu. 20. It then increased to Nu. 25 and followed by 30, 40 and now they charges 50. This clearly depicts the price escalation in everything that we get in the city exists, and it is escalating every now and then.
Today, when I look back, the situation is already altered a lot, which is unimaginable. Three years of my stay in India was one of the blind situations of my life as the alteration in capital city was unknown to me. When I get back, it already altered. The change in physical structure of the city leads to change in internal utility charges, which give us pinch that it will change as and when the city grows bigger. 

The Housing Problems

When it comes to the numbers of buildings, semi-permanent houses, huts and others, it is more than enough in number. Getting in the world of reality of the life in city, the houses are not available for every person living in the city. Hundreds lives away from the capital city like Hongtsho, Yoselpang, Khasarapchu, Namselling, Kabesa and some beyond, and they work in the offices located in the territory of the capital city.

The houses constructed in the capital city are small. Due to high price for the land per decimal, the people cannot buy larger chunks of the land. They purchase small chunks of the land and build a house according to the size of the land. This ultimately brings the size of the house is small. The house rent is really high and higher than that of the size of the apartment. The ‘Tenancy’ Act of Bhutan, if implemented strictly would help tenants gain some advantages. However, today, we face acute shortage of houses so the Tenancy Act is ‘un-followed’ by the house owners and tenants.

Once I went looking for vacant apartment in and around the core city areas with great expectations, where my expectations were unfulfilled. For uncountable days, I ran up and down, back and forth, looking for vacant apartment with two or three bedrooms, a toilet (s), Kitchen, living room, and other necessary basic facilities attached. I was sorry to myself, as I could not get vacant house. Whether rent is high or low, I was really in need of apartment to reside. I did not compromise the rent but eagerly looks for vacant apartment immediately.

After knocking the several doors, with help of my friends, I finally met with house owners. The apartment was vacant, designed for the family. I went inside and checked thoroughly, it was okay, Nu. 9,000 was rent, which was reasonable. The water bill whether used or not, it is fixed to Nu. 150 a month. The electricity bill fluctuates depending on usage. The rooms are fully furnished and wooden floored, two toilets, the balconies, geyser, and other basic facilities installed.

However, conditions apply for all the tenants. The conditions are not entertain big family, no children are entertained, weaving and roaring at the high voice is strictly prohibited, no other relatives are entertained, and many more. The house owners have their own choice. Today, their choice is good enough, but one day or another, house owner with such choices will not get tenants, which ultimately remain their house vacant. It was truly a rude act but I have to swig it.

There are tens of hundreds of huts installed in the heart of city. Along the ring road, road is being filled up by the semi-permanent structures where low-income people from across the country lives in. The Motithang city camp, Chubachu City camp, Kalabazar city camp and many more are playing vital role. The low-income families working under the Thimphu City Corporation (TCC) lives in. Nevertheless, what about our other working families, where their monthly income is low and lower than that of city labourers. They are isolated. They live in some privately owned huts with cruel conditions of the areas.

The Drivers, for instance, they earn less income. However, they live in concrete building where the rent is charged high. The low income houses built and managed by National Housing Development Corporation Limited (NHDCL), allocated to some high-income families. Some low-income civil servants in Thimphu settled down as far as Khasarapchu, Hongtsho, Yoeselpang, Kabesa, and other outskirt places of core city area. Not only the low-income civil servants, but also the corporate and private employees suffer the same trends of civil servants. As of now, they are not entitled with housing allowance like civil servants. They have to pay themselves the full house rent at the end of the month.

To get an apartment to live in happily, we have to struggle for several months looking for vacant apartments. The high-income civil servants, provided with government houses at various levels. They are peacefully enjoying the free housing with free electricity, water bills, and other basic needs. Nevertheless, our government forgets the low-income people who all are working hard enough, dedicating their time on their work to the service of the Tsa-Wa-Sum. Therefore, I am sure that incentive such as free housing and other basic needs to low-income people.

The Scarcity of Safe drinking water

The water is one of the essential parts of the life. Without water supply to our body adequately, will result in ‘End of Life’. The water plays an important role in the universe for the life of all individuals to survive. The water used for irrigation purposes, washing, drinking, and millions of purposes.

In the capital city, before few years or decades, the water supply was adequate for all the purposes. Conversely, with extension of the city, the safe drinking water becomes scarcity over the years. The people living in the city get inadequate water supply in recent years. The City Corporation installed various water reservoir tanks for every newly extended town. Still water supply lacks.

When people living in the city do not get safe drinking water, the people are infected by various diseases, which is life threatening for all the people. When patients admitted in the hospital for longer time of period, costs millions to give treatment, which is borne by the government. This is indeed harming the government budgetary system.

The Poor Sanitation

The city being one of the under developing cities in the country, the sanitation problem is one the major concern for all the people. The city by outer appearance is dirty and the garbage is thrown everywhere freely. The people living in the city have acute low thinking power, which in return collectively makes our city dirty. The plastics, bottles, can juice covers, the unwanted sachet boxes, kitchen wastes; human excretions and many more are nakedly seeable, floating on the city roads, the rivers, and drains. 

The septic tanks, in the middle of the city, the popularly known as ‘Main Traffic’ areas are flooded with human excretions, during the rainy season. It is really embarrassment for us while we are going with tourists. During monsoon season, almost all the parts of capital city are flooded with human excretions, as the septic pipes are not connected well. The hoteliers, residences and others do not pay attention to their wastes. They dump in the river, water drains, and other isolated places in order to make their homes clean.

Medical facilities at Top

The health and medical facilities are at top. The Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National Referral Hospital (JDWNRH) is located in the heart of capital city next to National Memorial Chorten. The 350-bedded hospital plays an important role in health and medical servicing for the people of every nook and corner of the country. The thousands of people visit the hospital every day for medication purposes. The scores of specialist, the doctors, hundreds of nurses and other health officials employed in JDWNRH, who all gives services for the indoor-patients or outdoor-patients day and night.

The children health care unit and emergency services provided here is one of the priorities of the public health. Starting from chronic diseases to the in-chronic diseases irrespective of regions was treated here based on their severity of the diseases. Of hundreds and thousands visited hospital every day, the scores of severely ill people referred to, from various other hospitals in the country every day.

The hundreds of nursing students of different levels study in Royal Institute of Health Sciences (RIHS), who all help permanent employees based on their practical experiences. This also help the patients un-left untouched. Therefore, health and medical facilities are good enough for the people of Thimphu and every citizenry of the nation as a whole.


The social problems

Owing to the growing city, the social problems are rising daily. The youth related problems in the city are major concern over recent years. The hundreds of youth studying in schools and colleges, hunting for employment are engaging in smuggling and abusing drugs, drinking and fright within themselves forming the groups, etc. are the youth related problems. The government and other concern authorities are working, advocating the public on it to solve the problems, but the problems increase every year as reported.

The stabbing, homicide, fights within gangs on various issues are concern and threat for the people living in the city. The social gathering places though is recreational centers assumes to be the starting point of the social threats. The youth of all ages irrespective of boys and girls, engage in drinking alcohol, which ultimately lead to ego clash. The drug dealers supply various tablets and marijuana, where youth of all ages engage in.

The cause of drug abuse and drinking is family problems, no proper place to stay, no proper care, lack of parents’ advice and all. When the parents and relatives that person is staying with, lacks proper advice and under the influence of friends, the youth engage in drugging and Alcoholism. The drug and alcohol push up their mind and lead to ego rising and finally they start forming in groups, and fight broke out in the city. These create unsafe society.

The old aged people who stay in Thimphu have no relatives and siblings give tremendous pressure to the city. They create unsocial society by sleeping in the street, begging to make their life ahead. The beggars have different intension for begging in the street. They beg during the day and drink in the evening or at night, which is also one of the major problems in the city.

There are many other social problems such as discotheques, nightclubs, karaoke and others. They attract all kinds of people. The people gathering there drinks a lot, eventually lead to exhibit unsocial behaviors that lead to problems in the society. The girls are spoiled from such centers under the influence of alcohol. However, these problems are in our hands whether to keep it awake or keep it away from human existence.

Unemployment is one of the major problems in the city. With very less job opportunities in government and other related employment agencies, the job seekers increase every year by thousands. The government works hard enough to solve it by framing the policy to send youths to work in overseas, which are not doing well. The Guaranteed Employment Program (GEP) was initiated, which does not work well. Still, the employment opportunities to every youth are not fulfilled as of now. There are thousands of youths left unemployed. The unemployed youths after desperately looking for employment lead to bars and restaurants, where alcohol is main thing or vibrant solution to clear up their agony of running office to office every day. This creates the social problems.

There are many such problems in the city apart from above-mentioned points. However, to keep short, I summarize the points. In this we can understand our capital city have problems. When people think of capital city, they feel cherished themselves to come and experience the city life. In reality, it is very difficult place to live in.


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Epilogue:


With advancement of the city to all the directions, there are need to first solve the social problems. If the problems that we are having today are not solved, there are very chances of increasing in near and coming futures. If suppose, above mentioned problems arise then it would be good for the people? No, that is not good at all. Solve it jointly from now and let shine the sun of Happiness amongst the people of Bhutan who come to Thimphu or who settled down in various corners of the country.

Boisterous place in town –the DRAYANG

Whole day, I was busy reading an article. It took more than 6 hours to read and analyze it. I took late lunch. In relaxing manner, I was watching television. It was almost 6:53pm in the evening; I got call from my friends. “Come to town….please be fast…,” hanged call. I called back to know the reason behind. “Tring…Tring…Tring…” My friend was on call. He was asking me to reach in one of the restaurants in the town shortly. With no choice, I had to go there. I travelled in cab. I went directly to the restaurant and met with friends. They were waiting for me.

They were asking me to go around in the town. I agreed them. We went along the street. One of three friends asked us to visit Drayang. It was shocking news, as I was unaware of it. I did not hear prior to. “It will be most experiencing and joyful evening today,” I thought. Two of my friends agreed and followed by my acceptance.

They led me to Drayang. It was one of the famous places and much visited or crowded Drayangs in the town. As soon as we entered the door, I saw big crowded. I never thought of looking around rather directly went to the right hand side corner. We took seat there. I feel ashamed to sit there, I felt as if crowd looking at me. The dancers were shaking their slimy body. The way they dressed was amazingly great. Nevertheless, the Kira and Tego look quite different.

Movement after, one of the dancers cum waiter, approached our group. They asked orders. “I feel like to have some different items,” I thought. However, orders were just beverages and snacks, which was completely against my thinking. My friends ordered some few bottles of beer and snacks of Juma.

Meanwhile, that girl asked for request. “What is request?” I asked myself. I pay attention to a group of old aged men talking about request next to us. I understood what request really is. My friends discussed a lot. ‘Request’ is famous term used in Drayangs by waiters cum dancers. They come to customers to sponsor for them to stand on the stage to sing or dance. “Please, request chi nang may…” the way they persuade customers.

In other group of men, there was a girl talking about so-called request. One of the men from a group was asking that girl to go with him, later at night. It was embarrassing for me. I felt ashamed, but never pull back my ears. The men’s terms and conditions for their request of request money were to stay with him for a night. Man seems to be wealthy. He asked her cellular phone number. Everything was set. He seems to be excited.

He pulls his wallet from back pocket of the jean pant he was wearing. He un-zipped his wallet, took out Nu. 1500. “Are you sure that you will stay with me tonight?” he asked in threatening way. “If my sister does not say anything I will...,” she replied. Then he handed over the money. He pulled her to his chest and kissed on her cheek. It was kind of molestation or caressing in public. However, there was no other option for young girls.

The girl went to counter deposited the money. The anchor announced her name to come on the stage to dance on the name of person who requested or paid Nu. 1500, meanwhile a girl was still with in my group waiting for handsome request money.

“Why so called request exists here,” I asked girl. She promptly answers my question in very easy way. She mentioned that how much request money they get would be their salary at the end of the month. I asked about salaries that owner pay for them, but it was very low. She did not even disclose her salary.

However, young girls earn from dancing, singing, and working in Drayangs, but they have some painful situation disclosed. Whether married or unmarried, they have to ask for request. The money directly goes to owner who sits in counter. Some Drayangs have manager appointed instead of owner.

My friends collected 200 each, which made Nu. 800, and gave it to that girl. She also asked us to give her some drinking items. So, my fellow friends sanctioned. She deposited money and came back with a cane of Tiger beer. The snacks they eat with drinks were Gap, Juma and other meat items.

The Drayang hall in decorated with pictures of Dharma Kings of Bhutan, the Rinpoches and other religious costumes. The people gather there is from all age groups. Some unwanted practices are going on in Drayangs. Both young and old women working there drinks a lot, passionately changes their mind under the influence of money, they keep aside their husbands rather opt for additional affairs, eat meats and so and so on.

However, it is not my life. Nevertheless, I felt guilty of our fellow citizens being exploited, especially girls in different ways. The way dress up is purely based on owner’s willingness to attract customers. They work for their owners and make money for them but spoil their life within short span of time.

I spent few hours in Drayang. It closes by 11pm. It is almost mid-night. Some stay in hostel, some stay with parents and relatives, and some with their husband. Owner provides them, transportation service until their homes. It is good for them and it is safe too.

The man was waiting outside the door for that girl. He waited for quite long time. He called her then. She was on call. He was arrogantly annoyed. He says that he was waiting her near front door. On call, she states that she was almost reaching home. He was infuriated. He asked back his money with slang language. “Did you reach home?” he asked. “I stay beside Drayang.” He went then. He walked with long steps. She was disinterestedly waiting outside to give time for him for his money. We took a majestic walk along the street. That man appeared driving a luxurious car.

We stopped thinking that he might have something to say. However, it was not. The girl was going with him. Two went missing from that point. One of my friends was aware that there is a Ballroom (dancing room). He asked us to see around in party. I ignored. They went in. They snapped some pictures and shown to me later. My friend had car so we went to car. My friends were not drunk. I asked not to drink anymore. They agreed.

We decided to proceed to Kuensel Phodrang (commonly known as Buddha Point). It was early in the morning. Party in town get over and hundreds of people hang around in Buddha Point. Unexpectedly, I saw gruel and other edible item vendors. They temporarily installed shops along the way, just below massive Buddha.

In early hours of the morning, I noticed people spent time sleeping along the roadside. Some spent time in car. That men and girl was at Buddha Point. They were spending early morning nightlife in car half nude. They even do not recognize people watching at them. Still they were drinking. It was great night watching different sorts of nightlife in capital city.

When people live life in such ways, it is definite that Bhutanese people have lots of time to spend considering leisure at night, keeping their family back at home. The phone rings, no one responded call, as and when I was watching. The Partygoers ignore calls and concentrate on temporary life with their temporary partners.

Back to town, the Partygoers or Drayang attenders, shout in the street distracting sleeping residents. The streetlights installed in the street are damaged throwing bottles, stones, and sticks. The Gang-Fight broke out under the influence of alcohol. These are major cause of social disharmony. Before decades, in the capital city, even if we walk alone, there was no risk. Now, life-risk is increasing owing to social gathering places.

Then after, I didn’t plan to visit Drayang and Ballrooms.