Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Pilgrimage to Chumophu (Chumbu)



Chumophu Monastery, Paro
Early in the morning of 14th May, 2014 coinciding with 15th Day of Bhutanese calendar, I woke up early in the morning with exciting mood on my face. Then the preparations for expedition to the religious site, which is of a day long walk from nearest road head to and fro. I felt that I am luckiest person to visit such an important and sacred Nye on the day of Sangay Nangwa Thayae.

Our journey then started from heart of Paro town by 9am in the morning, to Chumophu, which is better known as Chumbu. It is located exactly to North-East of Paro valley which is of two hours walk from nearest road head in Doteng Gewog.

The footpath which leads to Chumophu is long, but it was nice experience to walk up the hill through thick forest along the Doteng Chu River. Along the way, the suspension bridges are constructed with help from Royal Government of Bhutan. One of the two suspension bridges was collapsed and we had to pass through wooden bridge installed below it.

On the way to Chumophu, we are blessed with Nyes on the way and there are numbers of holy places. Chumophu is located in the middle of thick forests, where the place is said and believed that Ugyen Guru Rinpoche (Lotus born Tantric Master) blessed. It was then blessed and its one of the many sacred places of Guru Rinpoche, which was left with many hidden treasures. We scrutinized and observed the holy places with the help of signboards that are placed there. We read it and eye-witnessed the shapes and signs depicted on the massive rocks.

There are several Drupchus (the Holy waters) such as Life Drupchus of Guru Rinpoche, Khando Yeshey Tshogyel, and others. Apart from Drupchus, there are Drupkhangs (Meditation caves) of Guru Rinpoche, Khando Yeshey Tshogyel and other lamas of ancient times.

After we finished visiting all the religious sites on the way, we finally reached the main temple. The Nye was discovered by temple Chief Abbot of Bhutan, the 9th Je Khenpo Shakya Rinchen and built monastery over there. Later on, he meditated there and offered lakh prostrations. 

The main statue of the temple is Dorje Phagmo (Vajravarahi) standing on air. In Tibetan belief and even in ours, “Dorje Phagmo is believed to be the manifestation of the consort of the Wrathful Deity Demchok (Heruka). She is the highest female incarnation in Tibet and the third highest ranking person in the hierarchy after the Dalai Lama and Panchen Lama. She was listed among the highest ranking reincarnations at the time of the fifth Dalai Lama recognized and acknowledged by the emperors of Qing China.” mentioned in the Wikipedia.

It is believed that the Dorje Phagmo statue is discovered from the lake. History says that the statue was smaller size than present one. The monastery was called as Tsari Nyipa, the name derived from Tsari Nye in Tibet which was in the verge of vanishing. The present size of the statue was the same measurement of statue in Tsari Nye in Tibet. When statue was discovered from lake, the height the statue was of a foot. But with prophesy, Je Shakya Rinchen planned to build statue of same size covering a foot height statue. Then it is believed that statue grew up to present size. Then it was placed in the temple where we can see today.

There are other statues of Kagyud Lams of ancient times. There is a lake located to the North-west to the temple.

The beautiful scenes that most of the visitors like about the site are waterfall and stunning vicinity of high mountains. The water fall is picturesquely dangles over the cliff, where we had to pass viewing it. We can also see hills and mountains, gorges and valleys of nearby and faraway places.

Though, it is not connected by road network, but still the Lam and monks resided there conducts religious ceremonies during auspicious days. There are a Lam and eight monks with two police for security purposes. During auspicious days, tens of hundreds of pilgrims visit the Nye. The Nye is one of the most sacred sites our country.

My dream to take expedition to Chumophu was accomplished. I explored each and every holy site with help from friend and asked some few questions regarding the importance and how it came to be known to the public despite Nye being located far away from settlement.

Cordyceps –the boosting business for highlanders


Cordyceps

The locally and nationally known as Yartsa- Gunbub (Yar-Summer; Tsa-Grass; Gun-Winter; Bub-Insect) is a parasitic combination of fungus (Cordyceps Sinensis) and insect (Hepialus Armoricanus). It is found at a height of 3500 meters above sea level. In our country, the people of extreme Northern parts are collecting it to make huge earning within short span of time.

Yartsa-Gunbub, the caterpillar fungus is an exotic species and known as Chinese caterpillar and has some chemicals to boost various diseases. The important chemicals found in the herb are calcium and selenium, the later being well known for its ability to enhance immunity against cancer.

Cordyceps are collected by the people of highlanders within their stipulated territory. They are allowed to collect it to make their living from earning they acquire from it. The highlanders like people of Laya, Lingzhi, Lunana, some parts of Wangdue and Bumthang are collecting it.

During the season of collecting Cordyceps, the people of highlanders go to the site where they are supposed to pick it. They leave their children and old aged parents back at home. Yartsa-Gunbub is available when the snow melts in the higher ranges of mountains. It is during this time that people from far-flung and highland villages of Gasa, Paro, Wangdue and Bumthang district gear up to collect the Yartsa-Gunbub.

It is priced very high internationally. In the local market, it fetches little lesser amount. It plays an important role in boosting the economy of the particular areas and nation as a whole. The prices for the Yartsa-Gunbub depend upon the quality of the herbs. It is auctioned in various places in the country and exported to other countries of the world.

Owing to its chemical contain, it is used to manufacture medicines for all kind of diseases.

In Bhutanese traditions, there is habit of consuming cordyceps row. The people who consume alcohol put a cordyceps in it and as and when it gets semi-dissolved, then they take a sip to swallow it. Some make it into powder and mix with tea and other drinkable or eatable substances.

The collection of Cordyceps starts mid May and will go until June or July. The highlanders are already in high mountain sites to collect it to make their living for rest of the year, support their children in  

Thursday, May 08, 2014

Zhabdrung Kuchoe –the Death Anniversary



Statue in front of Machen Lhakhang, Punakha Dzong
Zhabdrung Kuchoe is widely observed in the country every year in the memory of Death Anniversary of our great leader Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. It is marked on 10th day of the 3rd month of Bhutanese calendar. This year, it falls on 9th May. The central monastic body performs the prayer ceremonies such as recitation of Zhabdrung’s zhabten (prayer for stability of life) and offer thousands butter lamps in every dzongs and monasteries across the country. 

Today mark the day, the government, organizations, corporations, NGOs, private sector offices and schools are closed for the day as holiday. Read more about Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in below, to know the fact:

Brief Biographical History of Zhabdrung

Zhabdrung Rinpoche was born in 1594 to Yab Tenpai Nyima and Yum Sonam Pelkyi in central Tibet to the family of religiously powerful. He belonged to the family of Gya who ruled the Drukpa Kagyud School in Ralung. His grandfather, Mipham Choegyal was driven out of Tibet by the rival. Mipham Choegyal was seventeenth abbot of Drukpa Kagyud School in Ralung.  Zhabdrung was trained by his grandfather, in every religious phase to be eighteenth abbot of Ralung School.

In 1606, his grandfather died, when he was only 12 years old. He, without any choice had to take over the throne as 18th abbot of Ralung monastery in Tibet. He took over a powerful position as Ralung was the traditional seat of the Drukpa Kagyud order. He then devoted most of his time in religious studies and artistic skills in traditional paintings and sculpturing. As he was young and small, he collided with the rulers of Tsang province, who then challenged his recognition as the reincarnation of the esteemed 4th Gyalyang Drukpa, Pema Karpo.

There was another person who claimed to be incarnation of the same, the problem arose. They try to replace Zhabdrung, which leads to kill him. The Tsang Desi Tensung Wangpo supported Pagsam Wangpo’s claim to be incarnation of Pema Karpo. New Tsang Desi Phuntsho Namgyal was against Zhabdrung and supported Pagsam Wangpo. Phuntsho Namgyal succeeded his father after he abdicated the throne.

To unravel the crisis incarnation of 4th Gyalwang Drukpa, Pema Karpo, Zhabdrung wrote a letter to Tsang Desi requesting to recognize him as true incarnation for the same, based on evidence. But Desi did not reply or reacted on his request. Later on, Desi arranged the meeting at Shigatse Dzong, which did not resolve the problem. So, Zhabdrung headed back to the home with disappointed.

The problem didn’t solve but matter became tougher and tougher with strong support from Tsang Desi on Pagsam Wangpo. They had several problems related to incarnation. The court case was also brought against him, and he was asked to pay fine for relics. The problem arose day after days. One day, Tsang Desi planned to attack the Ralung Monastery and assassinate Zhabdrung which compel him to make decision to save himself from such.

Then he made decision to settle in Bhutan. His decision to settle in Bhutan was which he was prophesized in his dream and visions the guardian deities offering him land of Bhutan. This is how Zhabdrung was decided to fled to Bhutan.

In 1616, at the age of 22, the Zhabdrung escaped Tibet and fled to the south, the land of thunder dragon. He passed through rugged mountains, hills and valleys, finally reached the territory of Mon-Yul. He was the welcomed by Hobtsho lam, who had close marriage and religious ties with Gya family, and the people of Laya and Gasa. Lam also invited him to Bhutan.

Before Zhabdrung came to Bhutan, while he was packing his various religious relics he also packed the prestigious relic, Rangjung Kharsapani. He brought it with him to Bhutan and its now kept in the Punathang Dewa Chenpoi Phodrang. Rangjung Kharsapani was self-created image of Chenzayzi, which was appeared from the backbone of Tsangpa Gyarey, while cremating him.

He held a night at Laya and then proceeds to Gasa. The people of Laya and Gasa paid him respect and declared their loyalty and he was welcomed by people northern Bhutan. He then followed to upper Thimphu valley via Karbi to Pangri Zampa. There the temple was built by his great, great grandfather who visited Bhutan. He also visited Dechenphug temple, the house of Protective guardian deities Drukpas since 14th Century. Zhabdrung paid homage to the deities in the temple; the sole deity paid back respect to him.  He then travelled to Paro valley vai Je-la and set Druk Choeding in the valley.

His contributions

Unification of the Country
Zhabdrung started unifying the country as soon as he arrived in Bhutan after establishing Druk Choeding in Paro valley. During his time of unification he faced the Tibetan invasion which was sent by Tsang Desi. First Tibetan invasion was took place in Paro valley in 1617. The reason for invasion followed him, because Zhabdrung brought sacred relic Rangjung Kharsapani. The Desi sent one of his greatest generals to lead men into battle where Bhutanese managed to drove them rancid assassinating the general.

The Zhabdrung visited the Tango monastery in upper Thimphu. He was warmly welcomed by Tshewang Tenzin who was grandson of Drukpa Kuenley, and offered monastery and lands its possesses. He meditated there and reciting prayers, he composed a poem Ngachudruma (Sixteen I’s). Meanwhile, Tsang Desi in Tibet was preparing stronger force to assassinate Zhabdrug. Later, the news reached the Zhabdrung that Tsang Desi and his wife died in Tibet.

Then he visited Chapcha and on his return to Tango, he was informed that his father Tenpai Nyima was died in Ralung. He then sent a group of loyal entrourage to TRalung to bring dead body of Yub Tenpai Nyima to Bhutan. However, he established a seal with his poem Ngachudruma.

Then Zhabdrung established Chari Monastery in 1620 and started first monk body. His father’s dead body was brought to Bhutan. The Chari monastery became the permanent resident for Zhabdrung. He invited his teachers and scholars from Ralung to teach in monastery. Then after completion of works, Zhabdrung went into retreat for three years.

With this, his trouble did not end with defeating Tsang Desi’s troop, and establishing monastery. The opposition from within the country called Lam Kha Nga. He was opposed by groups of Lam Kha Ngas, such as Lhakpas, Nyingmapas, Barawas, Kathogpas and Chazampas, while he was invited to other valleys and paid him loyalty. The first assail was happened in 1629, when Zhabdrung was busy building Simtokha Dzong. The leader of troop was assassinated but did not crushed completely.

Then, followed by other several invasions; firstly, Lam Kha Nga called on Tsang Desi’s son for their help to assassinate Zhabdrung. In 1634 the Tibetan invaded once again in different places but they were defeated and invasion ended there. Secondly, in 1639, Tibetan invasion again strikes over Bhutan to defeat or assassinate Zhabdrung, in the invitation of Lam Kha Nga. But it was however not successful, which lead to conformity between Tsang Desi and Zhabdrung, where Desi accepted the rule of Zhandrung in Bhutan.

The groups of Tibetan invasions were experienced in mid seventh century. Back to Tibet, the Tsang Desi’s power was fallen and Tibet was ruled by Gelugpas leaded by successive Dalai Lama who was the temporal and spiritual leader. Due to same notions in mind of spread their power in neighbouring countries, Gelugpa with combination of Mongol armies attacked Bhutan in 1644. After four years, Bhutan faced two consecutive invasions in 1648 and 1649, again invaded Bhutan from several and different directions. The invaders reached as afr as Thimphu, Paro and Punakha. It was managed to defeat the invasions. even after Zhandrung’s death, they invaded but always failed and defeated by Bhutanese.

Zhabdrung built Dzongs in Bhutan

Apart from facing the various stages of the invasions, he also built numerous dzongs in the country. In 1627, Zhabdrung built Simtokha Dzong at the entrance to Thimphu valley, which we can still see beautifully positioned on the hill. It was first Dzong built by Zhabdrung in Bhutanese land. Semtokha Dzong then served to wield his control over traffic between the powerful Paro valley to the west and Trongsa valley to the central Bhutan.

In 1637, Zhabdrung started building Punakha Dzong and Wangdiphodrang Dzong in 1638. In 1641 he seized old Lhakpa dzong of Thimphu, where present day Dechenphodrang stand. Those time, or before Zhabdrung’s arrival in Bhutan, the Lhakpa sect of religion was famous in the country. He then abolished the Lhapa sect of Thimphu and established Drukpa Kagyud sect of religions. In 1645, the old Drukpa family of Hungrel in Paro presented their small dzong to Zhabdrung, where he replaced it with bigger and with new name, Rinpung Dzong.

The Nyingmapa sect of religion offered him the monastery of Taktshang to Zhabdrung. He then built Drukgyel Dzong to guard Paro valley against Tibetan invaders in future. The daong was also said to be built in order to celebrate victory from Tibetan invasion.

Zhabdrung did not move to Eastern Bhutan but still his power and supremacy extended to Trongsa and built Trongsa Dzong with the name Druk Choekhor Rabtse Dzong. In 1651, he built Daga Tashi yangtse Dzong in Dagana. With construction of Dzongs, he almost covered the whole country. He also divided into three region, ruled by three Poenlops, the eastern, western and central.

Setting of the Administration
After building Daga Tashi Yangtse Dzong in Dagana, Zhabdrung completely brought Bhutan under him divided into three regions. They are allotted with specific regions to be ruled. The poenlops are appointed for three regions, Daga Poenlop, who was assigned to look after South-Central region, Paro Poenlop, the West and South-West and Trongsa Poenlop, the East and South-East.

The Je Khenpo was appointed as overall leader of the religion and Desi as political leader. The dual system he established with two people with two different responsibilities. This is called as the Choe-Si system. Zhabdrung act as supreme leader of both religious and political arena of the country.

Apart from unifying the country, he also secured independence. He faced many Tibetan invasions and invasions from within the country and established Drukpa Kagyud as the state religion in the country. The systems of administration an religious was created by Zhabdrung when he came to Bhutan and his stay here for 35 years.

He established not really same practices and systems which were in Tibet, during his reign. He espoused the title for him as Zhabdrung (at whose feet one submits). Then Bhutanese people referred him as Zhabdrung Rinpoche, the precious Jewel at whose feet one submits. He was and is greatest ever personality in the history of Religion and Political systems. He is well known and respected personality where we bow him very time.

Zhabdrung Rinpoche passed away

The Zhabdrung Rinpoche not only ruled the country but also devoted his time in construction of Dzongs in several regions. He ruled the country until his death in 1651, at Punakha Dzong. To avoid political chaos and future external invasions, in the wake of his death, his closest advisors conceal the news of his death for several years. During this stipulated time he was said to be ruling the country while in privacy, not sensible explanation given the extended silent retreats he was known to take during his life, although the length of his retreat must have seemed more and more incredible as the decades already passed.

The Zhabdrung Rinpoche’s dead body lies preserved in a sacred internal cavity in Punakha Dzong, present day called as Machen Lhakhang, where it has been under perpetual watch since his death in the 17th century. The task of watching over him is one of the most sacred duties in the country, carried out by two high lamas. Not even the Poenlops are high level officials were allowed in the internal cavity. Today, only Kings, Je Khenpo and Machen Zimpoen are allowed to enter. The sacred five colored scarf fro Kings and during King’s wedding should always receive from there.

The death of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal was disclose only after 25 years and believed that he was still under meditation. Then, Zhabdrung Kuchoe was observed since then every year on the 10th day of the third Bhutanese Calendar.

Thousands of devotees also received blessings and offered prayers to the Rangjung Kharsapani, which was displayed by the Central Monastic Body for public to scrutinize the day. The day is celebrated all over the country to commemorate the Death Anniversary of greatest leader of the country. To pay tribute to his ardent interest to unify and established Choe-Si systems or other legacy in the country, the people visit monasteries, chortens, holy places, religious sites, etc. to offer prayers. The people not only visit such places, but also offer butter lamps in the name of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal’s death anniversary.

The Rangjung Kharpani was then displayed to the public for the first time after it was stolen and recovered in 2000. It is one of the most sacred relics in the country.

Friday, May 02, 2014

Message to all the TEACHERS on TEACHERS’ DAY

No doubt, today is very important day in our country. Our well known ‘Father of Modern Bhutan’, His Majesty the Third Druk Gyelpo, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, was born in Thruepang Palace in Trongsa. He was born to our beloved Second Druk Gyelpo, Jigme Wangchuck and Azhi Phuntsho Choden Wangchuck, on 2nd May, 1928. In the history of education, he brought a landmark changes. He set up schools and institutes in the country. His educational reforms like adding our national language and other relevant subjects are notable reforms in the history of education. During his reign, the education system was strengthened and reinforced. He updated many new things in education systems. Political reforms like establishing National Assembly in 1953 and modernization through planned developmental activities was introduced and many more. Therefore, he is referred as ‘Father of Modern Bhutan’.

In the memory of his dedicated service to the nation and its people as a whole, the day is marked as holiday in Bhutanese calendar. The government, corporate, autonomous and private sectors remain closed for a day to commemorate His Majesty’s benevolent reign.

In addition to above, the Teachers’ Day is celebrated on 2nd May, every year to pay tribute to the His Majesty and teachers as a whole. This is the day, where we celebrate Teachers’ Day by schools all over the country irrespective of rural and urban territory. And it is only reason for celebrating the Teachers’ Day uniquely from other countries of the world. India, the day is celebrated on 5th September and 5th October is celebrated as World Teachers’ Day.

With this we should also know the significance of the Teachers’ Day being celebrated, all over the country, today. The word teacher itself shows lucid meaning which I have no words to express it, here. I quote Aristotle, “Those who educate children well are more to be honored than parents, for these only gave life, those the art of living well”. I unquote, Teachers exists when the civilization in this sphere starts. Teachers taught good, inspiring, and fantastic lessons to the learners, students and all. Teachers are one of the greatest people whom we came across in our life. They are not only the self-sacrificing givers but also the mentors of the life. At the every step of our life in the schools, we came across the teachers who devote their entire life in the enlightenment of students like me. For sure, teachers’ definition can’t be limited to a subject teacher but anyone who guided us in our life is a teacher.

Our beloved teachers, who taught us, from the day we joined the school and to the present height without any failure. My Pre-Primary Teachers helped me, guided me and inspired me with the encouraging and exterminating words. I can still remember the way our teacher teaches in the classes and their motivating remarks and footnotes. I was substandard students in the class, but due to our teachers’ consistent efforts and exhilarate supports, now we can meet in this school together. Moreover, I can write something to here because of the teachers who dedicated their time on me.

And this is the very reason for celebrating the day in remembrance of our 3rd Dragon King and his deeds and to pay our tribute to the Teachers of the past, present and future which will come sooner than later. It is significant to pay our homage for imparting knowledge selflessly. You all are our second parents and I will always keep our heart’s space for all the Teachers to be always remembered, wherever I go and stay after completing our schooling in this school.

I wish our beloved teachers would also put your consistent efforts to brighten our future and our future generation. Our future lies in your hands, so bless us with your golden knowledge, henceforth.

I wish all our teachers a very Happy Teachers’ Day.


Dendup Gyembo,
Students of Many teachers.