Pilgrimage to Chumophu (Chumbu)

Chumophu Monastery, Paro

Early in the morning of 14^th May, 2014 coinciding with 15^th Day of Bhutanese calendar, I woke up early in the morning with exciting mood on my face. Then the preparations for expedition to the religious site, which is of a day long walk from nearest road head to and fro. I felt that I am luckiest person to visit such an important and sacred Nye on the day of Sangay Nangwa Thayae.

Our journey then started from heart of Paro town by 9am in the morning, to Chumophu, which is better known as Chumbu. It is located exactly to North-East of Paro valley which is of two hours walk from nearest road head in Doteng Gewog.

The footpath which leads to Chumophu is long, but it was nice experience to walk up the hill through thick forest along the Doteng Chu River. Along the way, the suspension bridges are constructed with help from Royal Government of Bhutan. One of the two suspension bridges was collapsed and we had to pass through wooden bridge installed below it.

On the way to Chumophu, we are blessed with Nyes on the way and there are numbers of holy places. Chumophu is located in the middle of thick forests, where the place is said and believed that Ugyen Guru Rinpoche (Lotus born Tantric Master) blessed. It was then blessed and its one of the many sacred places of Guru Rinpoche, which was left with many hidden treasures. We scrutinized and observed the holy places with the help of signboards that are placed there. We read it and eye-witnessed the shapes and signs depicted on the massive rocks.

There are several Drupchus (the Holy waters) such as Life Drupchus of Guru Rinpoche, Khando Yeshey Tshogyel, and others. Apart from Drupchus, there are Drupkhangs (Meditation caves) of Guru Rinpoche, Khando Yeshey Tshogyel and other lamas of ancient times.

After we finished visiting all the religious sites on the way, we finally reached the main temple. The Nye was discovered by temple Chief Abbot of Bhutan, the 9^th Je Khenpo Shakya Rinchen and built monastery over there. Later on, he meditated there and offered lakh prostrations. 

The main statue of the temple is Dorje Phagmo (Vajravarahi) standing on air. In Tibetan belief and even in ours, “Dorje Phagmo is believed to be the manifestation of the consort of the Wrathful Deity Demchok (Heruka). She is the highest female incarnation in Tibet and the third highest ranking person in the hierarchy after the Dalai Lama and Panchen Lama. She was listed among the highest ranking reincarnations at the time of the fifth Dalai Lama recognized and acknowledged by the emperors of Qing China.” mentioned in the Wikipedia.

It is believed that the Dorje Phagmo statue is discovered from the lake. History says that the statue was smaller size than present one. The monastery was called as Tsari Nyipa, the name derived from Tsari Nye in Tibet which was in the verge of vanishing. The present size of the statue was the same measurement of statue in Tsari Nye in Tibet. When statue was discovered from lake, the height the statue was of a foot. But with prophesy, Je Shakya Rinchen planned to build statue of same size covering a foot height statue. Then it is believed that statue grew up to present size. Then it was placed in the temple where we can see today.

There are other statues of Kagyud Lams of ancient times. There is a lake located to the North-west to the temple.

The beautiful scenes that most of the visitors like about the site are waterfall and stunning vicinity of high mountains. The water fall is picturesquely dangles over the cliff, where we had to pass viewing it. We can also see hills and mountains, gorges and valleys of nearby and faraway places.

Though, it is not connected by road network, but still the Lam and monks resided there conducts religious ceremonies during auspicious days. There are a Lam and eight monks with two police for security purposes. During auspicious days, tens of hundreds of pilgrims visit the Nye. The Nye is one of the most sacred sites our country.

My dream to take expedition to Chumophu was accomplished. I explored each and every holy site with help from friend and asked some few questions regarding the importance and how it came to be known to the public despite Nye being located far away from settlement.